Tree Buying Checklist

Confirm the species fruits in SoCal. Check the no-grow list. Skip ultra-tropicals like mangosteen (greenhouse only), durian, rambutan, and breadfruit. The list changes as winters get milder, so check the current version.
Check chill hours. For temperate fruit, pick low-chill cultivars (under ~300 chill hours for the coast). Without enough chill, a tree leafs out and blooms late and erratically and sets little or no fruit.
Have a substitute in mind if your first choice won't grow here:
- rambutan → Brewster lychee or longan
- guanabana → cherimoya, atemoya, or cherilata
Research the right rootstock for your species, soil (clay vs. sand, nematodes), and climate. For example, local growers find Manila and Corriente mango rootstocks much more vigorous than Turpentine, which is Florida's standard. For stone fruit look for Nemaguard.
Time the purchase:
- Dec-Mar: bare-root and deciduous trees
- Apr-May: sub/tropicals (best window; winter is stressful for them)
- Jun-Aug: sub/tropicals are still OK if you water diligently
- Sep-Nov: good deals, but expect to prune roots
Plan to whitewash young grafted avocado trunks at planting, in any season (diluted white interior latex paint or Surround WP).
Comparison shop across nurseries. Ask about guarantees: some nurseries (Armstrong) include one in the price, others (Mimosa) don't offer one, since they specialize in plants that are marginal here.
If buying from a private seller (Craigslist, FB Marketplace, TFF), check their reputation first or ask chapter members.

Check for root knot nematode. Slide the tree out of the pot gently. If you see bumps on the roots, it is almost certainly root knot nematode. You do not want to introduce RKN to your garden!
Look for circling or girdling roots, especially at the root flare. If it doesn't slide out of the pot or if roots are growing out of the holes at the bottom of the pot, the tree might be root bound and might need some root pruning before you plant or up pot it. Avoid the tree if a big root wraps the trunk; good roots grow straight out.
Find the root flare. Dig down beside the trunk. If an up-potted tree was overfilled, the flare is buried, which makes the tree sit too deep once planted. A buried flare can be exposed at planting, but you want to make sure there aren't girdling roots or collar rot before you buy.
Check the potting mix (for example, styrofoam where there should be perlite).
Bare-root stock: roots should not be crushed, torn, dried out, or discolored, and their ends should be cleanly cut. Plant soon after buying.
Balled-and-burlapped stock: the flare should be visible, the top of the ball flat, and the ball not compressed. Ball diameter should be at least 10-12× the trunk diameter, measured 6" above the flare.

Check for a healthy graft If you want a grafted tree, check for a visible graft union and make sure it's healed well.
Take off any trunk wrap and inspect the trunk for wounds, insect damage, and flush pruning cuts. Good cuts sit just outside the branch collar.
Look for sunburned bark. Yellow or black bark on avocado and similar trees means much less vigor.
Look for wilting leaves. Wilting in moist soil is a possible sign of root rot (e.g., Phytophthora).
Check the structure. You want a straight trunk and well-spaced branches with firm attachments. Some of these can be fixed with corrective pruning at home, but these constitute bad structure:
- several stems coming from the same point (codominant stems)
- narrow branch angles
- branches rubbing the trunk or each other
- broken branches
Multi-trunk trees: the trunks should be well separated at ground level.

Tree Buying Checklist

Before you go

At the nursery: roots and soil

At the nursery: trunk, branches, and leaves

Before you pay